An Ecological Adventure (Nov/Dec 1998)

To speak of ecological reserves is to refer to places where nature Is guarded possessively. So much so, that to reach any of them is, in and of itself, a true saga. Add to this the privilege of enjoying an authentic refuge where contact with never-before-seen animals and plants, extraordinary geographic accidents and inhabitants of authentic simplicity and roots are synonymous with amazing experiences. The place? The Kapawi ecoiogicai reserve tourist program begins in Quito via Latacuriga-Arrtbato-Banos-Shell, on a picturesque, five-hour trip. During this trip, known as Avenue of the Volcanoes, you'll come across Andean geology, volcanoes and different native communities and markets such as those in Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
In Shell you board a small aircraft for 45 minutes before arriving in Sharamensa. It is truly a spectacular trip, with the aircraft skimming the treetops, the perfect way for you to take in the jungle vegetation that is crisscrossed at times by the erratic courses of the rivers.
One of these rivers, the Pastaza, will take you by canoe to the Kapawi Ecological Reserve; to a refuge with 20 accommodations, located in the Amazon Basin and constructed in 1996, making it the newest ecological hotel in South America.
It was built following the traditional Achuar architectural style, in which the house, oryea, is the smallest social unity. In Kapawi all the constructions are made of wood, with elliptical forms and roofs covered in palm leaves that are placed in a complex and perfect form, never succumbing to articles from "civilization" such as nails and screws. This is harmonious with the preservation of the pristine surroundings that are not even disturbed by the noise of an electrical plant, since that necessary and vital energy is obtained from solar energy. In addition, other methods of environmental conservation are utilized in the community such as biodegradable soaps and a trash recycling system.
The Natural Reserve represents a new model in the implementation of ecotourism based on the creation of a relationship between private enterprises and an indigenous community, with complete regard to the land and the community as a whole and with the common goal of preservation and development.
It is also a project that is a valuable exchange and learning experience, because each post in the complex, from the simplest to the most involved, is shared between an Achuar and an employee who acts as their instructor. What is the purpose of this method? To prepare the Achuar Indians when it comes time for them to oversee all aspects of the Reserve. From then on, the members of the Organization of Ecuadorian Achuar Nationalities will have the responsibility of supervising the complex, welcoming visitors, taking care of public relations and attracting tourism to the jungle.
Add to this the area's scientific research station, which was established with two goals in mind: to operate as a data center for the Achuar culture, and as a field biological station, as well as other projects in development; a medical aid program (which will operate, as one might assume, and for as long as it is possible, with natural medicine) educational programs and the founding of an ecological reserve.
In reality, it will be quite easy to lure tourists to this exceptional community on the Kapawi Lake, which flows off the Pastaza River, since the place is truly unique. A tropical rain forest that abounds with a universe of flora and fauna; up to now 300 species of trees and more than 400 birds have been identified, and that's not including those that live along the river and the lake.
There is no limit to the projects that can be accomplished in this privileged place, where nature has been so generous. The center offers a flexible program, which adapts to the interests and circumstances of the ecotourist. One of the options is hiking through different ecosystems, on paths that vary in difficulty, from easy (40-90 minutes); moderate (2-4 hours) and difficult (up to several days), depending on your experience, and always accompanied by four biologists and one native guide. Likewise, you can also canoe and kayak, and explore lagoons and estuaries as well as observe birds and fauna in general. There are an array of possibilities of which the most beneficial is that each visiting person or group can plan their own program.
The best part of the trip is contact with the Achuar Indians, a community that can be compared with a living encyclopedia due to their secular knowledge of the surroundings, their experience, their lifestyle, their legends and myths. A trip to Kapawi includes visits to communities and families, which offer an unforgettable experience. Thirteen years from now, in other words in 2011, the Organization of Ecuadorian Achuar Nationalities will be sole owner of this marvelous natural refuge, a sort of gift from those who have wanted to preserve an authentic paradise, thus confirming the words of the great researcher Charles Darwin: "In tropical forests; when quietly walking along the shady pathways, and admiring each successive view, I wished to find language to express my ideas. Epithet after epithet was found too weak to convey to those who have not visited the intertropical regions the sensation of delight which the mind experiences....".